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A computer virus may interfere with your Mac’s performance and health by corrupting or destroying data on your Mac. A virus can have profound and damaging effects. This short article explains how you can protect your Mac from viruses and other malware. They are annoying, time consuming, and very frustrating.

Even thought the terms “virus” and “malware” are often used interchangeably, they do not mean the same thing. Malware is any type of malicious software. A virus is a type of malware. Common types of malware include:
adware, for example see: Amazon Winner, Free Gift Card, Congratulations Scams & How To Stop Them
trojan horse

Can my Mac get viruses or malware?
The short ansIr is yes. No computer system is completely immune. HoIver, Mac is less susceptible to viruses than Windows PC. It is Certain that macOS is more secure than Windows. But it is also very simple to prevent viruses from getting on your Mac.
See also: Your System Is Infected With (3) Viruses

How do I know if my Mac has a virus?
You may be able to tell if your Mac has a virus if you experience any of the conditions below:
ads and popups are appearing often
your Mac is very slow
your Mac is behaving oddly
you are having Safari homepage problems

Do Macs need antivirus software?
This is up to you. I personally do not have any antivirus software installed on my Mac. I think if you follow the tips described in this article, you will not need an antivirus program.

It is important to note here that many-antivirus software is not compatible with macOS. There are also many fake anti-virus programs that contain malware. Be very careful if you want to get a antivirus program.

Simple Tips to Secure your Mac
If you think that you might have malware or adware on your Mac, follow the tips below:
1.Restart your Mac from time to time
This is important because macOS includes built-in features that remove known malware when you restart your Mac. To restart your Mac, you can choose Restart from the Apple menu.

1. Keep your software up to date
Periodically, Apple releases macOS updates that can help protect your Mac. You can update your Mac easily. To do this, simply choose System Preferences from the Apple menu and then click Software Update. If there is an update available, click Update Now.

Note: you may also want to check the “Automatically keep my Mac up to date” box.

2. Do not install software on your Mac that you do not know
The safest place to download programs and apps is the Mac App Store. HoIver, not all credible apps might be available in the Mac App Store. If you need to download and install a third party app and you are sure that that app cannot have any viruses, then download it from developer’s Ib site.

3. Do not click links in emails
If you do not know the sender, do not click any links. Further, do not open attachments. Some viruses may spread as soon as you open the attachment.

4. Use the Mac Firewall app
Mac Firewall can help notify you about suspicious activity. Here is how you can configure this:
Open System Preferences on your Mac
Click Security or Security & Privacy
Click the Firewall tab
Click “Turn On Firewall” (make sure that you unlock this section, simply by click the lock in the loIr-left corner that says “click the lock make changes”  and enter your password)
To configure the Firewall preferences, click Advanced. You can also configure the options by clicking the Firewall Options button.

5. Turn on popup blocker in Safari
You can do that by going to the Ibsites tab of Safari preferences. From the column on the left, select “Pop-up Windows”.  Then select “Block and Notify” or “Block”. Please note that some Ibsites may use pop-ups for information content. You can read this article to learn more.

6. Use Safari’s security features
Open Safari and click Safari and Preferences. Then click the “Security” tab and check the “Warn when visiting a fraudulent Ibsite” box. This will help you to recognize harmfull Ib sites.

See also: Critical Security Warning! Your Mac is Infected

Further notes, never download any Flash Player update because you got a pop-up window saying t it was out of date. I recommend deleting Flash Player. But if you want to use Flash Player, update it by going to System Preferences > Flash Player and then click the Updates tab and click Check Now.

I see that there are many Mac cleaner apps that are heavily advertised online. Do not download them if you are unsure that they are credible.
If you upgraded to IOS 13, your iPhone just got a major security upgrade. Here are some of the ins and outs.

If you own a relatively new iPhone, this week you should have received a notification that the latest iOS 13 update is ready to download. Besides the more obvious additions—like the introduction of dark mode, and the unexpected joys of Apple Arcade—it also features a raft of security and privacy enhancements.

This is not mean’t to be a tutorial, although some of the screen shots show where to go to make some settings. Here is some information how the latest version of IOS keeps you even more protected.

Sign In With Apple

Photograph: Apple
As well as using Facebook, Google, and Twitter to sign into new apps and services, you can now sign in with Apple too. The option limits data passed over to the third party to your username and email address, and Apple will even create a temporary email address for you if you like—if you start getting unwanted messages, you can just shut it down and walk away.

Fine-Tune Location Controls
You now get more granular control over how apps access to your current location. In addition to being able to grant that permission all the time or only when the app is running, you can now also allow it just once on a temporary basis. The next time the app needs your location, it'll have to ask for it again.
As in iOS 12, you'll get occasional pop-ups reminding you which apps are tracking your location. In iOS 13 though, you can see more of the data that the app actually logs, as well as the app's explanation for why it needs that data in the first place. If you don't buy the argument, you can block access.

Block Bluetooth Access
After you've installed iOS 13, you might see a flurry of apps asking for permission to transmit data over Bluetooth—data that can, in some cases, be used to track where you are, via Bluetooth beacons in stores and elsewhere. If you're not happy with granting permission, turn it off. Note that the permission to able to transfer data over Bluetooth is separate to streaming audio over Bluetooth, so you won't suddenly lose your connection to your headphones.

Stay Safe From Wi-Fi Tracking
As with Bluetooth, in a pre-iOS 13 world some unscrupulous apps were able to track your location without actually asking for permission to do so. Instead, they would take note of the public Wi-Fi networks you passed by. This has now been disabled in iOS 13. There's no option for it or setting to toggle; the privacy feature is baked in automatically.

Share Photos Without Locations

Of course you want to share your photos with friends and family, but maybe you don't want to share your home and office address with everyone you post a picture to. In iOS 13, when you share a picture through the Photos app, you'll notice a new option to strip the location data before you send it.

Silence Unknown Callers

You can, if you want, route calls from unknown numbers straight to voicemail in iOS 13. The feature is a little smarter than you might think , though: A well as checking numbers in your Contacts app, it also looks through Mail and Messages for unsaved numbers that you might be familiar with. Also, when calls are carrier-verified as genuine and not spoofed, you'll see a tick next to the number to let you know it's probably not yet another spammer.

Find Devices Anywhere
You'll notice a new Find My app on your iPhone after you install iOS 13, which helps you keep track of both your friends and your Apple devices, however you've mislaid them. As well as the features you'll already be used to—being able to ring your iPhone remotely, for instance—the new app can even locate your devices when they're not actively connected to Bluetooth or Wi-Fi.

This works via a very low-power Bluetooth signal emitted by your lost device. Apple creates an anonymous, invisible, secure scouting network from all the other Apple devices out there in the wild. If any of these devices detects your phone, you'll get an update on where it is.

Set Permissions for Individual Websites
Safari for iOS 13 now lets you control access to the camera, the microphone, and your current location on a site-by-site basis. If you're happy about some sites getting access to these permissions but not others, you can tailor it to your liking. The feature is managed through the Safari section of Settings. Cross-site tracking, where ad networks can follow you across multiple sites, is now prevented by default too—in iOS 12, it was optional.

Keep Contacts More Private
There's a small but perhaps significant change in the Contacts permission as well. Apps that get access to your list of contacts will no longer be able to read the notes field alongside each contact. If you've used these fields to record sensitive data—like your father's PIN code or your real feelings towards your aunt—third-party apps will no longer be able to view them.

Block VoIP Apps From Collecting Data
In iOS 13, Voice-over-IP apps—those ones that let you make audio and video calls over the web—are no longer able to collect data in the background while they're not running. While this data collection could ostensibly be used to connect calls faster if you didn't have the relevant app open, it was also open to potential abuse. It's expected that apps like WhatsApp and Snapchat will need to be redesigned as a result.

Encrypt HomeKit Video Streams
Part of the reason that there aren't as many devices that work with HomeKit as with, say, Amazon Alexa or Google Assistant, is that Apple has some fairly restrictive rules that manufacturers need to meet. One of those, new in iOS 13, is the requirement that HomeKit-compatible security cameras must encrypt footage before it leaves your home, so no one else can see it.

Put HomeKit on Your Router
Another security feature introduced with HomeKit on iOS 13 is support for HomeKit-enabled routers. When these devices appear on the market, they'll be able to isolate individual smart home devices, so if a malware infection should strike one of them, it won't be able to spread to the others.

A mac mini diplay of Catalina

My Mac is old, can I upgrade to macOS Catalina?

The latest Mac operating system will run on the following devices:

MacBook (2015 or newer)
MacBook Air (2012 or newer)
MacBook Pro (2012 or newer)
Mac mini (2012 or newer)
iMac (2012 or newer)
iMac Pro (2017 or newer)
Mac Pro (2013 or newer)

Here is a link to a mutipage pdf to explain it.


If you ever wondered how to take a screenshot on a Mac, here's a comprehensive guide of not only how to do it, but every option available to you from Apple and third-party apps.

We must love our Mac screens. Apple gives us five ways to take screenshots or screen grabs of them, each with options. There are at least as many other third-party apps that will do exactly the same thing.

Or rather, not quite exactly. Each option of Apple's and each third-party app does this grabbing of your screen in slightly different ways. The principle is always the same, but it's the method you use and and precisely what results you get that make the difference.

It makes the difference over whether it's worth paying for an app or just using Apple's built-in options. And it makes a difference, too, over just what you can then use the images for. You'll always be able to take an image and work on it in, say, Photoshop or Pixelmator Pro, but many of the screen grab tools available will let you work directly on the screenshot.

Start with Apple

Apple has long had ways for you to take screenshots on the Mac and only last year added more with the release of macOS Mojave. What it's never done, though, is make it obvious how to take a screenshot on a Mac, which can be frustrating for new users.

You can't use the menus to take a screen grab, you can solely use a keyboard shortcut. That makes perfect sense since a menu would get in the way of your screen shot, but no one could possibly guess that Command-Shift-3 was the keystroke you need.

Screenshot 101

Hold down Command-Shift-3 and, immediately, whatever is on your screen is saved as a PNG file on your desktop. You wanted a screenshot, you've got one, you're done.

Except that this basic Command-Shift-3 keystroke takes a grab of the entire screen when you might want just a portion. It also takes the shot immediately, perhaps before you've got everything ready.

It also briefly puts what Apple calls a floating thumbnail in the bottom right-hand corner of your screen.

This is exactly what you may be used to from taking screen grabs on your iOS device —except it isn't. There's one crucial difference, which is that if you take a second screen shot before the first thumbnail vanishes, your new grab includes it.

On iOS, the system is intelligent enough to ignore the thumbnail and grab whatever is underneath it, but macOS is not.

What's great is that you can circle and annotate anything. What's not so great is that you have to watch you don't accidentally include a thumbnail at bottom right.

Then this basic screen grabbing saves the image to the desktop and you could end up with a lot of those to clear off later. And, just to cap it all, the Command-Shift-3 images will never include your mouse cursor.

So if you're just trying to show someone which tick box to click in, this approach doesn't get you the mouse cursor over the box, it doesn't even get you just the dialog box.

Fortunately, other options can.

Go one better

Press Command-Shift-4 instead, and you get a much different result. As soon as you press those keys, your cursor turns to a crosshair. Click and drag that crosshair over an area you want to take a screen grab of, and as soon as you let go of your mouse or trackpad, that's what you get.

Maybe the most common use for selecting a portion of the screen is when you're trying to take a shot of a single window. It's sufficiently common that Apple has you covered.

Press Command-Shift-4 to get the crosshairs, but this time don't click. Move your mouse cursor over the window you want to grab, and then tap the space bar. The whole window turns a light blue and your cursor becomes an icon of a camera.

Notice the crosshairs at the bottom right of the grey area. We're dragging to select an area we want grabbed.

Click the mouse or press the Return key, and a screen grab of just that window will be saved to your desktop.

If you don't want to clutter up your desktop with screengrabs that you're just making to send to someone and forget about, you don't have to.

This time, press Command-Control-Shift-4. Everything works the same as it does with crosshairs and selecting windows, but instead of saving the PNG file to your desktop, your Mac puts the image into the clipboard. Go into Mail, or any other app, and simply Paste.

So now you can highlight a particular area, make a screen grab, paste it into an email message and move on.

Except you still haven't got that mouse cursor, and you still didn't get that context menu displayed in time.

One more

As of macOS Mojave, you can now press Command-Shift-5 to get screenshots as well. If you only learn one keystroke, this is the one because it gives you all of the various options in one place.

Press that key combination and you get a floating palette of options at the bottom of your screen.

As of macOS Mojave, we get a deeply comprehensive set of screen grab options built in

To the left are options for taking screen grabs. So there's a button for grabbing your whole screen, then next to it one for just grabbing a particular window. Then there's a selection button, with an icon of a square made up of dotted lines, which is how you say you want to drag to select part of the screen.

There are then controls for doing the same with video, taking screen movies of the whole or part of the screen.

Next to those, though, there is a button for Options. In this section, you can change where screenshots are saved, and you can set a timer. Tell your Mac to take a screen grab any time from immediately to five seconds from now. That's how you can press the button and scurry to arrange menus.

Here you'll also find an option called Show Mouse Pointer. Unfortunately, it's not quite what you think or quite what Apple appears to say. It will show the mouse pointer in your screen shot, but solely if that shot is of the entire Mac's window.

If you just want to grab a portion, you can, but you're not getting the mouse cursor showing in it, regardless of what the setting says.

That's annoying, but there's a reason this is an option and not a default. There's even a reason we could believe Apple simply hasn't noticed that Show Mouse Pointer has this limitation. It's that the mouse pointer is not that useful in a still image,

Notice the camera icon. The window selected in blue will be grabbed when you click or hit Return.

Show someone a screen shot of your entire Mac display and they will have trouble finding the cursor. You're much better off marking up your images with annotations.

Marking up

There's one more option in that Command-Shift-5 pallete, and that's Show Floating Thumbnail. This is where you can switch off the thumbnail that appears at the bottom right of your screen, if you want to.

While it's a pain when you're taking a lot of shots and have to wait for the thumbnail to vanish between each one, there's a reason Apple makes this the default. When the thumbnail image appears on your screen, you can click on it to open it up into an editor. Before it's even saved to your desktop, you can edit it.

You can crop the image, rotate it —or annotate any part of it. Right within macOS, you can draw arrows pointing to elements, you can draw ragged circles around them, and you can write text notes.

So you might show someone a dialog box that needs three things to be turned on or off. Point out each part, and you can number them, or you can write 'on' or 'off' right there.

When you're finished, click Done and the image is saved to your desktop.

This does all require you to be fast enough to click on the thumbnail before it vanishes. And it's funny how it feels as if the thumbnail lingers when you don't want it, but races away when you do.

Even if you don't catch it in time, though, you can find the image in the Finder and annotate from there. Either right click on the file, choose Quick Actions and then Markup, or click to select an image, then press the space bar to get a Quick Look.

While Quick Look is on screen, you'll find a Markup button at top right.

There you have it. Now you know how to take a screenshot on a Mac with expert precision.

This is a quick video to show you how to generate a password using your Mac and the included Keychain app.

Don't worry if the first part of the video seems to be only audio, be patient. Thanks

Short video on Gmail shortcuts.

Buying a new phone often meant an afternoon of entering contacts, one by one, into the new handset. Switching from Android to iPhone might seem even more difficult, with all the photos, apps, messages, contacts and settings on each device.

But making the big switch is actually simpler than you might think, thanks to a great deal of cooperation from both sides, if you follow these instructions to switch from Android to iPhone.

Before you get started, it is important to ensure both your iPhone and Android phone have plenty of battery life and are plugged into a charger — transferring everything can take a long time. You will also want to make sure they are both connected to the same Wi-Fi network.

Finally, make sure there is enough storage space on your iPhone to accommodate everything on your Android — including its own internal storage, and the microSD card if it has one. If there isn't enough space, don't worry too much. You can pick which content to transfer and which to leave behind later.

Next, you should switch on your new iPhone and start working through the initial setup process. When you reach the Apps & Data screen, you'll see this option: 'Move Data from Android'. Tap on this to get started.

If you have already setup your new iPhone without doing this, you can go into the Settings app, then tap General -> Reset -> Erase All Content and Settings. This will restore your iPhone to as-new condition, so you can go through the setup process again and tap Move Data From Android.

The Move to iOS app

Now it's time to download the Move to iOS app onto your Android phone from the Google Play store. Once you have installed the app, opened it and agreed to the terms and conditions, you should tape Next in the top-right corner of the Find Your Code screen.

Next, head back to your iPhone and, having tapped Move Data From Android, tap Continue and wait for a 10-digit code to appear on the screen. Enter this code on your Android smartphone, then wait for the Transfer Data screen to appear.

On the next screen you'll be asked to select which content you want to transfer from your Android phone to the new iPhone.

Here is a list of the data that can be transferred from Android to iPhone:

iMessage history
Camera photos and videos
Web browser bookmarks
Email accounts
Calendars and events
Free apps available on both the iOS App Store and Google Play store

Apple cannot promise that all free apps will be downloaded, but you can head into the App Store and grab them manually after the transfer process has been completed.

If you have a lot of photos and videos on your Android, then this transfer — which is carried out over Wi-Fi — can take a long time. You might want to leave the two phones for an entire afternoon, and Apple warns that you should wait even after your Android suggests the process is complete.

Once the iPhone shows the process has completed, tap, "Done" on your Android device, then tap, "Continue" on the iPhone and follow the instructions to finish the setup process.

Music, books and PDFs

Some content has to be transferred manually. Music, for example, can be transferred using iTunes on your computer. Or if you use a streaming service like Spotify, just download the app on your new iPhone, log in, and download your playlists.

The same logic applies to ebooks saved in apps by services like Amazon Kindle or Google Play Books. To move ePub books and PDFs, you'll need to use iTunes and the Android Fire Transfer app on your computer.
It’s easy to get free protection from losing all your photos if your phone gets lost, stolen, or broken using Google Photos.

There’s a good chance you are already backing up your photos and video from your iPhone through iCloud, Google Photos, or another service and that’s great, but I’m also sure you probably have a parent or sibling that isn’t, especially if they’ve already filled up their free allotted iCloud storage. It’s easy with Google Photos to get free protection from losing all your photos if your phone gets lost, stolen, or broken.

How to install Google Photos

1. Go to the app store and download Google Photos. Once that’s finished, go ahead and open it.

2. You’ll need to allow Google Photos to access all your Photos.

3. It’s your choice on whether you want notifications. I personally don't allow them to avoid the distractions.

4. Now you’ll have the options to Back Up and Sync, which is precisely what you want to do, and what image quality to save at.
If you want free unlimited photos and video storage, Google Photos will need to compress the files. Google's compression quality is quite good, so you really won’t be missing much.

You could save original quality but then you’d hit the free storage limit and you’d end up in the same boat as you were with iCloud.
5. You can choose to use cellular data to back up if there’s no Wi-Fi. This depends on your data plan and the amount of photos and videos you take. If your plan has a limited data cap, or if you’re just using Google Photos as a free backup and you’re unlikely to touch it often, then leave this off.

6. Log in with your Google account. If you don’t have one, you’ll need to create one.

Using Google Photos

Google Photos will save all the photos you take on the iPhone, but if you delete something from the Apple Photos app, it won’t necessarily delete it from Google Photos. However, if you try to delete an image from the Google Photos app, it will ask if you want to remove it from the phone as well.
The background upload isn’t perfect and you may occasionally want to open up the app to force a backup. With these settings though, I had good backup experience if the phone was both on Wi-Fi and plugged in charging.

Finally, if you edit the photo in the Apple Photos app, Google will treat that edit as a new image and save it in addition to the unedited one.
With all that said, you should be able to rest a little bit easier knowing that the only priceless things on your iPhone are now a little bit safer.
You do not need any third party software for this. Just use the Finder.

Watch the video: