Archive (August 2019)



Here is a link to a mutipage pdf to explain it.
https://mespn.com/MailRulesHowTo.pdf

ENJOY!


If you ever wondered how to take a screenshot on a Mac, here's a comprehensive guide of not only how to do it, but every option available to you from Apple and third-party apps.

We must love our Mac screens. Apple gives us five ways to take screenshots or screen grabs of them, each with options. There are at least as many other third-party apps that will do exactly the same thing.

Or rather, not quite exactly. Each option of Apple's and each third-party app does this grabbing of your screen in slightly different ways. The principle is always the same, but it's the method you use and and precisely what results you get that make the difference.

It makes the difference over whether it's worth paying for an app or just using Apple's built-in options. And it makes a difference, too, over just what you can then use the images for. You'll always be able to take an image and work on it in, say, Photoshop or Pixelmator Pro, but many of the screen grab tools available will let you work directly on the screenshot.

Start with Apple


Apple has long had ways for you to take screenshots on the Mac and only last year added more with the release of macOS Mojave. What it's never done, though, is make it obvious how to take a screenshot on a Mac, which can be frustrating for new users.

You can't use the menus to take a screen grab, you can solely use a keyboard shortcut. That makes perfect sense since a menu would get in the way of your screen shot, but no one could possibly guess that Command-Shift-3 was the keystroke you need.

Screenshot 101


Hold down Command-Shift-3 and, immediately, whatever is on your screen is saved as a PNG file on your desktop. You wanted a screenshot, you've got one, you're done.

Except that this basic Command-Shift-3 keystroke takes a grab of the entire screen when you might want just a portion. It also takes the shot immediately, perhaps before you've got everything ready.

It also briefly puts what Apple calls a floating thumbnail in the bottom right-hand corner of your screen.

This is exactly what you may be used to from taking screen grabs on your iOS device —except it isn't. There's one crucial difference, which is that if you take a second screen shot before the first thumbnail vanishes, your new grab includes it.

On iOS, the system is intelligent enough to ignore the thumbnail and grab whatever is underneath it, but macOS is not.

What's great is that you can circle and annotate anything. What's not so great is that you have to watch you don't accidentally include a thumbnail at bottom right.


Then this basic screen grabbing saves the image to the desktop and you could end up with a lot of those to clear off later. And, just to cap it all, the Command-Shift-3 images will never include your mouse cursor.

So if you're just trying to show someone which tick box to click in, this approach doesn't get you the mouse cursor over the box, it doesn't even get you just the dialog box.

Fortunately, other options can.

Go one better


Press Command-Shift-4 instead, and you get a much different result. As soon as you press those keys, your cursor turns to a crosshair. Click and drag that crosshair over an area you want to take a screen grab of, and as soon as you let go of your mouse or trackpad, that's what you get.

Maybe the most common use for selecting a portion of the screen is when you're trying to take a shot of a single window. It's sufficiently common that Apple has you covered.

Press Command-Shift-4 to get the crosshairs, but this time don't click. Move your mouse cursor over the window you want to grab, and then tap the space bar. The whole window turns a light blue and your cursor becomes an icon of a camera.

Notice the crosshairs at the bottom right of the grey area. We're dragging to select an area we want grabbed.


Click the mouse or press the Return key, and a screen grab of just that window will be saved to your desktop.

If you don't want to clutter up your desktop with screengrabs that you're just making to send to someone and forget about, you don't have to.

This time, press Command-Control-Shift-4. Everything works the same as it does with crosshairs and selecting windows, but instead of saving the PNG file to your desktop, your Mac puts the image into the clipboard. Go into Mail, or any other app, and simply Paste.

So now you can highlight a particular area, make a screen grab, paste it into an email message and move on.

Except you still haven't got that mouse cursor, and you still didn't get that context menu displayed in time.

One more


As of macOS Mojave, you can now press Command-Shift-5 to get screenshots as well. If you only learn one keystroke, this is the one because it gives you all of the various options in one place.

Press that key combination and you get a floating palette of options at the bottom of your screen.

As of macOS Mojave, we get a deeply comprehensive set of screen grab options built in


To the left are options for taking screen grabs. So there's a button for grabbing your whole screen, then next to it one for just grabbing a particular window. Then there's a selection button, with an icon of a square made up of dotted lines, which is how you say you want to drag to select part of the screen.

There are then controls for doing the same with video, taking screen movies of the whole or part of the screen.

Next to those, though, there is a button for Options. In this section, you can change where screenshots are saved, and you can set a timer. Tell your Mac to take a screen grab any time from immediately to five seconds from now. That's how you can press the button and scurry to arrange menus.

Here you'll also find an option called Show Mouse Pointer. Unfortunately, it's not quite what you think or quite what Apple appears to say. It will show the mouse pointer in your screen shot, but solely if that shot is of the entire Mac's window.

If you just want to grab a portion, you can, but you're not getting the mouse cursor showing in it, regardless of what the setting says.

That's annoying, but there's a reason this is an option and not a default. There's even a reason we could believe Apple simply hasn't noticed that Show Mouse Pointer has this limitation. It's that the mouse pointer is not that useful in a still image,

Notice the camera icon. The window selected in blue will be grabbed when you click or hit Return.


Show someone a screen shot of your entire Mac display and they will have trouble finding the cursor. You're much better off marking up your images with annotations.

Marking up


There's one more option in that Command-Shift-5 pallete, and that's Show Floating Thumbnail. This is where you can switch off the thumbnail that appears at the bottom right of your screen, if you want to.

While it's a pain when you're taking a lot of shots and have to wait for the thumbnail to vanish between each one, there's a reason Apple makes this the default. When the thumbnail image appears on your screen, you can click on it to open it up into an editor. Before it's even saved to your desktop, you can edit it.

You can crop the image, rotate it —or annotate any part of it. Right within macOS, you can draw arrows pointing to elements, you can draw ragged circles around them, and you can write text notes.

So you might show someone a dialog box that needs three things to be turned on or off. Point out each part, and you can number them, or you can write 'on' or 'off' right there.

When you're finished, click Done and the image is saved to your desktop.

This does all require you to be fast enough to click on the thumbnail before it vanishes. And it's funny how it feels as if the thumbnail lingers when you don't want it, but races away when you do.

Even if you don't catch it in time, though, you can find the image in the Finder and annotate from there. Either right click on the file, choose Quick Actions and then Markup, or click to select an image, then press the space bar to get a Quick Look.

While Quick Look is on screen, you'll find a Markup button at top right.

There you have it. Now you know how to take a screenshot on a Mac with expert precision.


This is a quick video to show you how to generate a password using your Mac and the included Keychain app.

Don't worry if the first part of the video seems to be only audio, be patient. Thanks



Short video on Gmail shortcuts.



Buying a new phone often meant an afternoon of entering contacts, one by one, into the new handset. Switching from Android to iPhone might seem even more difficult, with all the photos, apps, messages, contacts and settings on each device.

But making the big switch is actually simpler than you might think, thanks to a great deal of cooperation from both sides, if you follow these instructions to switch from Android to iPhone.

Before you get started, it is important to ensure both your iPhone and Android phone have plenty of battery life and are plugged into a charger — transferring everything can take a long time. You will also want to make sure they are both connected to the same Wi-Fi network.

Finally, make sure there is enough storage space on your iPhone to accommodate everything on your Android — including its own internal storage, and the microSD card if it has one. If there isn't enough space, don't worry too much. You can pick which content to transfer and which to leave behind later.

Next, you should switch on your new iPhone and start working through the initial setup process. When you reach the Apps & Data screen, you'll see this option: 'Move Data from Android'. Tap on this to get started.

If you have already setup your new iPhone without doing this, you can go into the Settings app, then tap General -> Reset -> Erase All Content and Settings. This will restore your iPhone to as-new condition, so you can go through the setup process again and tap Move Data From Android.

The Move to iOS app

Now it's time to download the Move to iOS app onto your Android phone from the Google Play store. Once you have installed the app, opened it and agreed to the terms and conditions, you should tape Next in the top-right corner of the Find Your Code screen.

Next, head back to your iPhone and, having tapped Move Data From Android, tap Continue and wait for a 10-digit code to appear on the screen. Enter this code on your Android smartphone, then wait for the Transfer Data screen to appear.

On the next screen you'll be asked to select which content you want to transfer from your Android phone to the new iPhone.

Here is a list of the data that can be transferred from Android to iPhone:

Contacts
iMessage history
Camera photos and videos
Web browser bookmarks
Email accounts
Calendars and events
Free apps available on both the iOS App Store and Google Play store


Apple cannot promise that all free apps will be downloaded, but you can head into the App Store and grab them manually after the transfer process has been completed.

If you have a lot of photos and videos on your Android, then this transfer — which is carried out over Wi-Fi — can take a long time. You might want to leave the two phones for an entire afternoon, and Apple warns that you should wait even after your Android suggests the process is complete.

Once the iPhone shows the process has completed, tap, "Done" on your Android device, then tap, "Continue" on the iPhone and follow the instructions to finish the setup process.

Music, books and PDFs

Some content has to be transferred manually. Music, for example, can be transferred using iTunes on your computer. Or if you use a streaming service like Spotify, just download the app on your new iPhone, log in, and download your playlists.

The same logic applies to ebooks saved in apps by services like Amazon Kindle or Google Play Books. To move ePub books and PDFs, you'll need to use iTunes and the Android Fire Transfer app on your computer.
It’s easy to get free protection from losing all your photos if your phone gets lost, stolen, or broken using Google Photos.

There’s a good chance you are already backing up your photos and video from your iPhone through iCloud, Google Photos, or another service and that’s great, but I’m also sure you probably have a parent or sibling that isn’t, especially if they’ve already filled up their free allotted iCloud storage. It’s easy with Google Photos to get free protection from losing all your photos if your phone gets lost, stolen, or broken.

How to install Google Photos

1. Go to the app store and download Google Photos. Once that’s finished, go ahead and open it.


2. You’ll need to allow Google Photos to access all your Photos.

3. It’s your choice on whether you want notifications. I personally don't allow them to avoid the distractions.


4. Now you’ll have the options to Back Up and Sync, which is precisely what you want to do, and what image quality to save at.
If you want free unlimited photos and video storage, Google Photos will need to compress the files. Google's compression quality is quite good, so you really won’t be missing much.

You could save original quality but then you’d hit the free storage limit and you’d end up in the same boat as you were with iCloud.
5. You can choose to use cellular data to back up if there’s no Wi-Fi. This depends on your data plan and the amount of photos and videos you take. If your plan has a limited data cap, or if you’re just using Google Photos as a free backup and you’re unlikely to touch it often, then leave this off.

6. Log in with your Google account. If you don’t have one, you’ll need to create one.

Using Google Photos

Google Photos will save all the photos you take on the iPhone, but if you delete something from the Apple Photos app, it won’t necessarily delete it from Google Photos. However, if you try to delete an image from the Google Photos app, it will ask if you want to remove it from the phone as well.
The background upload isn’t perfect and you may occasionally want to open up the app to force a backup. With these settings though, I had good backup experience if the phone was both on Wi-Fi and plugged in charging.

Finally, if you edit the photo in the Apple Photos app, Google will treat that edit as a new image and save it in addition to the unedited one.
With all that said, you should be able to rest a little bit easier knowing that the only priceless things on your iPhone are now a little bit safer.